Our overnight train arrived in Budapest at 8:30 a.m., right on time. This was important, because I had scheduled our first Budapest activity at 9:30 a.m. – a four-hour spa session at Szechenyi Thermal Baths, Europe’s largest medicinal baths.
I knew we would still have our luggage, since our AirBnB wasn’t available until 2:00. We also wouldn’t have towels. So about a month before our trip, I reserved a private spa room where we could store our coats/luggage and change clothes. The room came with some goodies. Robes, towels, flip flops and treats.
Underneath Budapest and many regions of Hungary are hydrothermal caves. Szechenyi’s baths are supplied by two thermal springs. First opened in 1913, the baths were expanded in the 1920s and 1960s, and the plumbing systems were upgraded in the 1990s. The 18 baths are still supplied by hot mineral water made up of sulfate, magnesium, salt, etc. At times, you can smell the sulfur a bit.
The architecture reflects the neo-Baroque style popular in the early 20th century.
When we first walked outside, the golden walls gleamed in the morning light. This photo does not do it justice.
That was the pool we went in first, fast-walking in the cold winter air from the door to the pool. While the air was a brisk 39 degrees Fahrenheit, the water was a very pleasant 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 Celsius). The steam was rising as we stepped into the pool, and the relaxation was immediate. Ahhhhh.
We also noticed a chess set on one end of the pool with some very focused games taking place.
The second pool outside had a kind of whirlpool in the middle. The current was super strong and pulled you around really fast. We didn’t stay in that for long.
Then we tried out the myriad of indoor pools and the hot salt room. Each bath has the temperature posted and a recommended amount of time for staying in it. Hungarian physicians often prescribe mineral baths to their patients, stating which pools to use and for how long. This is covered by health care.
We didn’t have a prescription, but we did try different baths. One thing you notice is how buoyant you are in this water. If you sit on one of the tiled benches your arms and legs float up and you even bounce a bit.
We even tried the super cold plunge pool. It was bracing! I could not get out of that pool fast enough.
The final area I enjoyed at Szechenyi was the rooftop palm court, complete with hammocks and a bar.
At this point, we were getting close to our finish time. So we packed up and headed out to our AirBnB.
The only downside of Szechenyi is its fame and popularity with tourists like us. Partway through our four hours there, the number of people became overwhelming at the outdoor pools.
Two days later, we decided to try a thermal bath that was popular with the locals. Nezzie found one. It was not in a tourist area, and it was interesting to walk around.
The baths were not nearly as glitzy as Szechenyi and much more utilitarian. There were three indoor therapeutic pools, each with a different temperature, two outdoor pools, and an indoor plunge pool. We also enjoyed the Finn Sauna.
It was fun to be there with locals who kind of looked at us with curiosity. Most of the locals were older folk, possibly retired, and it was obviously a social opportunity to catch up with friends — many portly grandpas in speedos and grandmas chatting it up with their gal pals.
We loved the thermal baths. Full stop.
Next post will be our Budapest sight-seeing and a visit with familiar faces!
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